A Fashion Conundrum

Hi friend,

In a story for Air Mail about the resurrection of the Girlboss, Jessa Crispin writes that the return of these ladies was inevitable, “since the system that cranked them out to begin with remained intact, with no visible reform or adaptation, after their fall.” After all, she says, “You can’t build a machine that makes Sneetches and expect it to spontaneously start producing Zizzer-Zazzer-Zuzzes instead.”

But was the girlboss really “the millennial version of having it all,” as she says? We’d argue that it was less a regularly person’s fantasy, and more a straightforward example of tokenization. The fact that five or six women were held up as inspirational figures says a lot about whose stories (and headshots) media outlets wanted to highlight, and what sort of feminism they felt safe portraying. Narrowly rendered, easy to topple.

Speaking of the Sneetch machine, to borrow a Seussian character to describe American capitalism: It churns on. Tomorrow, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show will air on Amazon, which has partnered with the lingerie giant to allow viewers to shop while they watch live. It’s a high-tech twist for a show powered by nostalgia, from Missy Elliot’s performance to the return of models like Candice Swanepoel and Adriana Lima to the behind-the-scenes talent, such as legendary fashion stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele and makeup artist Pat McGrath.

Amazon, increasingly, is in its own stratosphere when it comes to American consumption. After all, this is a website that created a shopping holiday out of thin air (though the bloom may be off that rose).

It wasn’t that long ago that the entire retail industry was upended thanks to digital commerce, then the rise of DTC brands and social media. Now the fashion world is in a “whirlwind of change” once again, writes Evan Clark for industry paper WWD. Clark blames the current turbulence on a potent mix of factors, including “the continued slide of the American department store, the near-complete digitization of marketing, President Donald Trump’s trade war with the world, the after-effects of the pandemic, [and] the tech dominance of a few large players like Meta and Google.”

The world of high fashion is trying to adapt by playing musical chairs with its designers. But, as New York Times Styles Section editor (and former EIC of The Cut) Stella Bugbee shares in an interview with Blackbird Spyplane, the biggest trend may just be how hostile the luxury market is towards real women’s bodies, which she marks as a notable regression. As she says, “I don’t want to feel like I have to get plastic surgery, or go on a pill, to participate in this world.”

We don’t have a solution to that particular issue, but we do have cozy sweaters. And a few fun recommendations for your week. All below!

Bye,
Your friends at Gloria

Some people have a sickness, and it’s that they cannot stop stockpiling sweaters. Sweater season rolls around, and there they are, tempting you once again. Big, chunky cosy ones; cool polo-style ones; rollnecks; cardigans; crews. Here are 15 we’re eyeing.

• Might be the first time we’ve coveted an Everlane sweater, TBH. Everlane Oversized Polo Sweater, $148. Size XXS to XXL.

• With some clogs, at the greenmarket? That’s right. Muriels of Vermont The Classic Crewneck, $250. Size XS to XL.

• This swanky one sold out quickly in red, but there are still a few gray and black left. Soldout NYC The Cashmere Polo, $295. Size XS to L.

• Great color and quality. Aflalo Enar Sweater, $185. Size XS to L.

• The ideal cut and shape. Emerson Fry Cozy Sweater, $238. Size XS to L.

• We like this extra-fluffy look. Cos Brushed Cashmere Crewneck Cardigan, $299. Size XS to L.

• A slim style with a fashion-y spin (if you’re game for shoulder pads). The Frankie Shop Croydon Wool-Blend Polo Sweater, $185. Size XS to XL.

• A classic shape amped up with some interesting seams and an unexpected color. Banana Republic Oversized Merino-Cotton Crewneck Sweater, $150. Size XXS to XXL.

• Nicely slouchy. Almina Concept Polo Wool Sweater, $248. Size S, M, L.

• Almost a sweatshirt. Uniqlo Smooth Cotton Sweater, $49.90. Size XXS to XXL.

• The perfect basic. Kule The Tatum, $258. Size XS to XL.

• Absolutely love this soft sweater, and the Crayola colors it comes in. Atelier Delphine Balloon-Sleeve Sweater, $290. Size XS/S and M/L.

• A cute little striped number, on sale. Demylee Savannah Cardigan, $125. Size XS to L.

• Simple but good. Quince Organic Cotton Boyfriend Crewneck Sweater, $49.90. Size XS to 3XL.

• A thick cardigan that could double as a jacket. Sézane Evi Cardigan, $160. Size XXS to XXXL.

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TO LISTEN If you’ve ever been in a room with Tyra Banks and felt her incredibly intense energy, you understood why America’s Next Top Model was the way it was. Now, a new podcast relives that fever dream. Host and pop-culture journalist Bridget Armstrong spoke with contestants and former show staffers to explore the bonkers stuff that happened both on- and off-screen.

TO WATCH The charm of Ed Burns’s 1995 dramedy The Brothers McMullen, about three brothers in an Irish Catholic family, was how scrappily made it was. Everyone had their real teeth, and we appreciated that. Now we have a polished sequel: The Family McMullen. It’s in theaters for one night – tomorrow – and then presumably will be available on streaming.

TO READ Talk about a dysfunctional family. Big-name chef Gabrielle Hamilton (of Prune) just released her brutally honest new memoir, Next of Kin (Bookshop, Amazon) where she dives into estrangements, affairs, and cruel parents.

TO COOK We just made this Thai turkey meatballs recipe and it was great, but you have to follow some of the tips in the comments and double the aromatics. (To be fair, she did write the recipe with kids in mind.)

Broken-rib surgery for a smaller waist? No thanks! • On that topic, this is a sensitive discussion about plastic surgery. • The rise of older female punks. • What’s the deal with wellness pod guy Jay Shetty? • “My historic home was beautiful. It was also slowly killing my triplets” (yes, this is about lead paint).

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