A Magic Skin Fix?

Hi friend,

New generations are discovering a classic hottie: JFK Jr.

And what’s not to like? Tall, dark, handsome. A lover of accessories — please bring back all those hats — rollerblading, and journalism. How easily Ryan Murphy’s new series Love Story strums our collective ‘90s longing.

The music is the most shameless part of the entire thing. Lenny Kravitz, P.M. Dawn, Mazzy Star, En Vogue, Sophie B. Hawkins?! How dare they. Because whoever put “Damn I Wish I Was Your Lover” into a scene where Daryl Hannah (played by Dree Hemingway) returns to try to get back together with John knew exactly what they were doing. As if we weren’t feeling melancholy enough, given we’re watching a TV show about a couple that ends up dying tragically.

And, of course, there’s the fashion. And the draw of beautiful people with good taste, innate natural style, and the resources to shop for it. And the deliciously bitchy Calvin Klein office dynamics.

It took a lot to get the look right. Murphy initially tried to put a wig on actress Sarah Pidgeon, but when images of the cast filming went viral – in a bad way – he was forced to make some changes. Pidgeon’s hair was bleached to closer mimic Carolyn Bessette’s blonde (this was after Vogue spoke with Bessette’s colorist, Brad Johns, who said, “If you show that on TV and fashion people see it, they are going to think, why the fuck is she all ashed out with her hair only one color?”), and costume designer Rudy Mance was brought on to better match Bessette’s style through archival pieces. Meanwhile, the show auditioned more than 1,000 actors to try to find one with JFK Jr.’s looks and charisma, before landing on a virtual unknown only a few weeks before filming: Paul Anthony Kelly. Said executive producer Brad Simpson, "Part of it was just that sort of '80s, old school masculinity — a man with hair on his chest, sort of Richard Gere, Tom Selleck, the classic chiseled looks — we're not making those guys anymore, for some reason.” (We’re not making those guys anymore?)

Wardrobe and hair aside, there was also a pre-release kerfuffle involving the Kennedy-Schlossberg family, which was not consulted for the show. Which brings us back to the viewing experience. What’s been recreated here isn’t a fictional version of reality, but a fictional version of fiction. Doreen St. Félix, in a review for The New Yorker: “Even as I giggled over their flirty banter or teared up over their painful arguments, I found it hard not to wonder if this wasn’t just another fairy tale, imposed upon a person who suffered so mightily for having been turned into one.” No wonder it goes down so easy.

Bye,
Your friends at Gloria

I'm 50, with many years of health, science, and beauty writing under my belt. I know better than to fall for viral skincare hype. I've watched ingredient cycles come and go — snail mucin, bee venom, peptide everything. But here I am, examining my increasingly crepey under-eye area, genuinely wondering if I should try a topical estrogen cream.

The pitch is compelling: Estrogen keeps your skin bouncy. Menopause tanks your estrogen. Apply estrogen topically. Problem solved. It's appealingly simple, especially at midnight when you're scrolling before-and-afters. The question is: Are these products safe and worth the hype?

The Biology Is Real

When you hit menopause, you lose up to 30% of your collagen in the first five years. Some research suggests it's closer to 50% of dermal collagen. Your skin gets thinner, drier, and more fragile. Not just your face — on your arms, hands, neck, and that delicate under-eye area. 

Here’s how Dr. Dendy Engelman, a board-certified dermatologic surgeon at Shafer Clinic Fifth Avenue, explains it. "Skin cells express estrogen receptors, and estrogen signaling plays a role in maintaining collagen, dermal thickness, hydration, barrier function, microcirculation, and wound healing. Loss of estrogen, such as during menopause, clearly accelerates visible skin aging."

In your late 30s to early 40s, estrogen becomes less predictable even with regular cycles. You might notice intermittent dryness, slower healing, and skin that looks stressed more easily. During perimenopause — typically in your 40s — hormone levels fluctuate. Collagen production slows, breakdown speeds up, you lose hyaluronic acid and sebum. Patients often tell Dr. Engelman that fine lines linger longer, skin looks crepier (especially around the eyes and neck), and treatments don't seem as effective.

Then menopause hits, usually around 50, and estrogen levels drop. "This is when laxity, deeper wrinkles, jawline softening, and eyelid sagging often accelerate," she says. You're not imagining it. The change is structural and swift.

But Does Topical Estrogen Actually Work?

Estrogen in skincare isn't actually new. Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden sold hormone creams starting in the 1930s before the FDA reclassified estrogen as a prescription drug. And there are a handful of small studies that suggest it does help — modestly. Dr. Engelman notes that research shows improvements in elasticity, fine wrinkles, and skin thickness, mostly using low-dose estradiol or estriol. "However, the data is limited," she cautions.

One well-known clinical trial from Alloy that followed subjects using their 0.3% estriol cream for 12 weeks found statistically significant improvements in elasticity, hydration, texture, and firmness. Importantly, it showed no significant systemic absorption of the hormone. The study was not peer-reviewed, however.

There are dermatologists who've been recommending estrogen cream for years. Dr. Ellen Gendler, a board-certified dermatologist in New York (and medical advisor to Alloy), told Air Mail she's been using it for 25 years, dabbing it under her eyes and on the backs of her hands. 'Every patient that I prescribe [vaginal estrogen] to continues to use it, and everyone seems to love it,' she said. 

But Dr. Rachel Nazarian, a board-certified dermatologist in New York, urges caution: "More studies are needed to support the safest and most effective way to use topical estrogens. Overall, retinol is still the gold standard.”

A Closer Look at the Research

To be clear: There is evidence that topical estrogen can improve aging skin. Multiple studies have documented improvements in hydration, elasticity, and collagen. Women report that it works. Dermatologists have been prescribing it with good results. The research base, while small, is consistently positive. But when you dig into the methodology — which I did, because that's apparently what I do at midnight now — limitations emerge.

According to Dr. Jen Gunter (there’s no one more thorough, skeptical, and committed to combatting women’s health misinformation than Dr. Gunter) there are only nine peer-reviewed clinical trials on topical estrogen for facial skin, and they're all pilot or Phase 1 studies, which are useful for planning larger trials, but, she writes, insufficient for making clinical recommendations. (To be fair, pilot studies are exactly how science progresses. You start small, gather initial data, then design larger trials based on what you learn.) Of those nine studies, Dr. Gunter notes that only three are placebo-controlled. The rest lack control groups, a fundamental flaw. 

The research tested various formulations — different estradiol preparations, Premarin vaginal cream, estrone, and estriol — making it impossible to draw unified conclusions. Participants varied too: some were on hormone therapy, some not; some were perimenopausal, some postmenopausal. The trials lasted just four to six months, but women might use these products for decades! Six studies failed to specify how much estrogen was used.

Another issue is that most tested products were compounded hormones, not FDA-approved formulations. Dr. Engelman notes that "there are currently no FDA-approved estrogen products for cosmetic facial use, and compounded formulations lack long-term safety data." Because compounding lacks FDA oversight, the actual hormone content can differ substantially from what's on the label.

Among placebo-controlled trials that disclosed dosing, findings were mixed. Some showed benefits, others didn't. One study using estrone cream — one of the better-quality trials — showed no beneficial effect on wrinkles or collagen and actually increased a collagen-degrading enzyme.

Perhaps most importantly, no studies have compared topical estrogen head-to-head with retinoids, the proven anti-aging gold standard. Without that comparison, we can't know if estrogen offers anything beyond what we already have.

Dr. Nazarian explains that retinol and estrogen work through completely different mechanisms. Retinol speeds cell turnover but can dry skin. Estrogen boosts sebum and hyaluronic acid while improving laxity. It hydrates rather than dries. "They're really very different," she says. If topical estrogen works, it's an addition to your retinoid, not a replacement.

Dr. Engelman agrees: "Estriol creams do not outperform tretinoin. Do not replace sunscreen. Do not reverse photoaging. They may improve crepey, estrogen-depleted skin and help with postmenopausal dryness and thinning. They are best viewed as adjunctive, not foundational, treatments."

The Safety Question

This is where things get complicated. Most facial formulations use estriol rather than estradiol. Your body produces three types of estrogen: estradiol (most potent), estrone (weaker), and estriol (weakest). Estriol is primarily present during pregnancy and is considered to have the most favorable risk-benefit profile for cosmetic use.
"Estriol provides some estrogen-related skin benefits — improved hydration, elasticity, epidermal thickness, and collagen support — while producing less systemic activity," says Dr. Engelman. "This is why it is most commonly used in facial formulations."

The concerns about absorption that made me pause: "Breast tension and pain occurred in some of the women, which is pretty suggestive of systemic absorption and potential for effects on breast tissue,” says Dr. Nazarian.

Dr. Engelman acknowledges that some absorption occurs but emphasizes context: "With estriol used correctly, it is typically minimal. When applied to small areas such as the face and neck, serum estrogen levels either do not change or show tiny, transient increases that remain within postmenopausal baseline ranges. Estriol is rapidly metabolized and does not accumulate." It's worth noting what hasn't happened in these studies: no one developed breast cancer, no one had endometrial hyperplasia, and aside from some melasma and occasional breast tenderness, serious adverse events were absent.

Still, the long-term safety data is thin. Just one trial checked whether the estrogen affected the uterine lining, which is critical as absorbed estrogen could potentially lead to precancer or cancer. The other studies either didn't check or weren't long enough to make this assessment.

Both doctors are clear about who should avoid these products. "There just aren't enough studies to confidently recommend topical estrogens in women with a history of breast cancer or endometrial cancer or risk of cancer," says Dr. Nazarian.

Dr. Engelman agrees. "There is currently no evidence that low-dose topical estriol applied to the face increases breast or uterine cancer risk. That said, long-term safety data — particularly regarding endometrial outcomes — are limited, and caution is appropriate in women with a personal history of estrogen-sensitive cancers."

If you have a history of hormone-sensitive cancers, this isn't a casual decision. You need clearance from your healthcare providers.

Side Effects and Realistic Expectations

Beyond cancer concerns, there are other potential issues.

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The device was designed by women, with comfort in mind, which shows. If your screening is coming up, this is a way to check the box without rearranging your life. Teal works with most major insurance plans. Order the kit, book the quick virtual visit, and move on with your day. Order your kit here. #partner

TO WATCH A new documentary shines a light on an underappreciated musical genius. Billy Preston: That's the Way God Planned It is a look back at the Grammy Award-winning artist, who collaborated with some of the biggest acts of the ‘60s and ‘70s (he was sometimes referred to as “the fifth Beatle.”) A list of the screening locations is here. Today also brings the return of the extremely watchable Apple TV thriller series The Last Thing He Told Me, which is based on the popular book and stars Jennifer Garner.

TO LISTEN This collaboration between musician Hrishikesh Hirway and Iron & Wine is really nice. It’s off Hirway’s upcoming album In the Last Hour of Light, which is out in April.

TO SHOP Spring weekends are hopefully on their way and we’re getting ready for it with a few key pieces from Ann Taylor that that are stylish, comfortable, and priced right. Like this elevated sweatshirt and matching pant for everyday errands; this shirtdress (which makes for an easy, pulled together outfit); and this classic trench to toss over it all. They’re offering 30 percent off everything for spring — shop it out here. #partner

TO COOK This is a new favorite for a savory breakfast. The ingredients are simple, and it’s ultra quick (if you already have leftover rice in the fridge). Bacon’s optional.

How politics detonated a D.C. parenting group chat. • An overwhelming look at the current state of plastic surgery. • Obsessed with these photos of Whoopi. • How some are pushing back against technology in the classroom. • “My life in magazines.”

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